PARIS

Short days, long nights in the City of Light. We rang in 2019 from Paris so keep scrolling! I’ll be including how to do the New Year in proper Parisian-fashion!

BEFORE YOU GO  

• No Visa required for US Citizens for a stay under 90 days  

• France is on the Euro € (duh, but obligatory mention)  

• The tap water IS safe to drink

• The city of Paris consists of 20 districts called arrondissements, each with their own reputations and appeal

• The sun won’t even clock in for a full 8 hours in the winter! (Rising at 9 am, setting at 4 pm)

ONCE YOU’VE ARRIVED

Phone: If you don’t have an international data plan or something like Verizon’s Travel Pass, once you arrive in Paris, purchase a SIM card  and credits at any TABAC (located throughout Paris). A Lebara SIM card was €5 and I loaded it with €15 in credits.

*Note: It’s not just enough to buy the credits, you then have to use those credits towards a package purchase! In my case I bought 3 GB of data using €10 of my credits by texting purchase code “ILLIM10” back to the SIM card activation welcome text message. Lebara has an online chat that can assist if you need help or if you’re unsure of which package to purchase for your cellular needs.

Language: Everyone has a different experience of the French and their willingness to speak English. Of the many I asked, most said they had no problem, the Parisians are friendly. My boyfriend and I experienced a few times that this wasn’t the case. Get familiar with a few basic expressions to win points for trying.

Bathrooms Pt 1: Bathrooms in coffee shops and restaurants are free if you’re dining (Public toilets may charge - it was €2 at Notre Dame. So I held it.)  

Bathrooms Pt 2: A cool thing is that toilets on the street are also free. It looks like little kiosks that you’ll find throughout the sidewalks in Paris. They’re gross like any public or beach bathroom, but when nature calls, les toilettes are there for you.

Gypsies: I was warned about the Gypsies so I was expecting slashing of bags, kids touching me and numerous attempts to jack my iPhone directly from my hand, but this was not the case. Even in crowded areas like the Eiffel Tower we did not experience Gypsies. I’m guessing they’re around, but I was prepared for a lot worse. Either way, it’s still good to be on your guard.   

FASHION

I was overly concerned with how to dress, knowing this is Paris, there are standards. I’m happy to report that Paris dress code has relaxed (this observation echoed by many of my globe trotting friends and travel bloggers). While sweatpants or your big university sweatshirts are still not acceptable, you’re now commonly seeing women pair chic winter coats with athletic sneakers.

In the winter, layers are huge - scarves, hats, gloves. I also saw some women in skirts with SHEER stockings; I have no idea how they were doing it in low 40 degree weather… I’d personally die.

Everyday I wore one thermal layer, a cute sweater layer and a huge winter coat with a scarf. Anything beyond that is not chic or necessary. Keep it simple and classy.

AIRLINES

I used Skiplagged for my airfare. $696 in total round trip, which I guess/hope is decent for booking in September for New Year travel. (It sure is cheaper than flying my usual LA to Hawai’i)

Going and coming was night and day. Lessons learned:

Going: Air Tahiti Nui is great. 2 decent meals, nice crew, free check-in if bag is overweight coming out of LAX. I flew out on the 29th of December and the flight was really empty. Almost everyone got to spread out across multiple seats.

Coming: Avoid Norwegian. Yes, they seem cheaper, but by the time you pay for water and food (which they disturbingly don’t serve on any international hauls unless you pay $50 for it) it’s just as expensive. I also got hit with a lovely $90 fee to check-in my tiny carry-on bag flying out of CDG (because it was a few kilos over). And they will guarantee be delayed!

TRANSPORTATION

• Carnet: Buy the Carnet (a 10-pack of tickets) and save about €4.00. (€1.90 for a single vs €14.90 for a Carnet) Use on buses and trains.

• Trains: The RER-B feeds straight into the city from the CDG airport (about a 40 minute direct train ride from CDG to our Air BnB in the 5th arrondissement). Buy tickets when you get there, there will be self-serve ticket screens at the airport. In our experience, you didn’t need the €10.95 airport travel ticket, you could just use a regular €1.90 single ticket (or €1.49 if pulling from your Carnet) to get you to and from CDG.  *Note: Some train lines require that you release the door latch to enter or exit the train. Doors will not automatically open at stops.

• Bus. Also takes the same tickets as trains.

• Scooters and Bicycles: We didn’t use these but there were many scooters (including Birds) and bikes throughout the city for rental.

• iPhone users: Use Apple maps to navigate around the city. Determine best routes and modes of transportation. You can choose by least walking distance, fastest route, least amount of stops.

$ SAVING TIPS  

• Cook in Air BnB's (new to Air BnB? Hit the link and create your account in less than a minute!)

• Do prefix menus (this limits your selection of a restaurant’s entire menu, but you’ll still have a good meal. There’s many affordable prefix menu options in the Latin Quarter where we stayed)

• Pack picnics and eat at parks or boulangerie/patisseries (better in warmer weather)

• Take advantage of free museum entry days if you’re traveling during the first week of the month

• Buy a Carnet (10-pack of bus/train tickets) and save about €4.00

• Walk when you can

• Buy museum entry tickets ahead of time online and make sure they are “skip the line”

• Shop for groceries at big and cheap chains like Lidl rather than small corner markets

• Don't dine in, you’ll incur a service charge. Take that coffee to go.

• Ask for tap water rather than bottled for when you do dine in

• Buy pastries from supermarkets, not at street bakeries (€0.40 versus €1.30 for chocolate croissants and it tastes the same)

• Explore Paris covered passages and the Galeries Lafayette Haussman roof (free to do)  

• Decide which places to just view the exterior of (Musee D’Orsay, Moulin Rouge) instead of paying admission for

NEW YEAR’s IN PARIS

Is it so bad that I wanted to french kiss my way into the new year?? Whether it’s a trip with lovers, family or friends, here’s what you need to know:

• Massive security. Law enforcement will shut down main roads with police cars blaring down the street starting around 5:00 pm.

• Get ready to walk. Many bus and train lines will shut down before (around 5:30 pm on 12/31) and after midnight (until early the next day). Especially in major parts of the city by the Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysees, etc.

• Transportation is free on New Year’s Day

• New Year’s Eve dinner, shows, cruises or other plans should be booked well in advanced. There are restaurants open along the Seine River that look like they accept walk-ins, but if you’re a planner, why leave it up to chance!

• Many restaurants, shops and grocery stores will be closed 12/30 - 1/2.

River Seine dinner cruise

Overpriced (but what isn’t on New Year’s Eve in Paris?) We paid €178 altogether for the 7:30 pm dinner cruise with Paris En Scene. The prefix menu listed on the website is really just a suggestion, rather than what will actually be served. (The NYE menu indicated you’ll have your choice of chicken or fish. Turns out we were all served “veal”) But! You’re not there for the food, you’re there for the experience and to drink in the sights in fun, moving club-like atmosphere. The service isn’t great but the Top 40 music is upbeat and as long as you’re in good company, you’ll have a great time.

Laser & Fireworks Show on the Champs-Elysees & Arc de Triomphe

Mandatory. If you’re in Paris for the new year, this is where you want to be. For years and years when I’d watch the worldwide recap of how each major city rung in the new year for Paris they’d feature the Arc de Triomphe. It’s the iconic, world-renowned thing to do.  

Not sure what the security situation is year to year, but security was tight heading into 2019! All roads leading to the Champs-Elysees had pedestrian security checkpoints. Everyone was searched and open bottles were confiscated. I felt safe seeing many people with babies and strollers, figuring they weren’t deterred by the recent protests or terrorist threats so neither should we.
We walked along the Seine after our dinner cruise and up King George V avenue. Highly, highly recommend. Once you hit the Champs-Elysees, it puts you within good view of the Arc de Triomphe and in perfect position to the projector.

Myth-buster: Yes, fireworks DID go off at midnight! (Some online sites report Paris doesn’t do fireworks, despite many photoshopped images showing otherwise).

FOOD & DINING RECOMMENDATIONS

Food

• Macaroons: An expensive habit. I really liked this refrigerated box I got from Piccard (the Trader Joe’s of France). I also tried the McDonald’s macaroons, limited flavors but chewy texture.

• Chocolate croissants: Buy in the bakery section in grocery stores for €0.40 instead of dropping €1.30. It tastes the same.

• Creme brulee: I didn’t notice much of a difference between what I’ve tried in LA versus there, but still deserves a try.

• French onion soup: Same as with the creme brulee.

• Baguettes: Pointed-end baguettes usually indicate made by hand.

• Cheese: Don’t insult the French by not trying the cheese. You can sacrifice your lactose intolerance on a few occasions (side note: goat’s milk is made up of a different enzyme than cow’s milk and is easier to digest. Go for that).

• Crepes: Crepe cafes can be found throughout the city, some even making it on the sidewalk right in front of you.

• Belgian waffles: With its proximity to Belgium, you’ll find Belgian waffle street vendors in Paris.  

• Orange Juice: Most French supermarkets have a place to fresh-press your own OJ

Dining

The nice thing is that most French restaurants (and museums for that matter) have online sites with a French and English version, so toggle on over to the English version so you can understand what’s going on.

SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS

The sites in Paris are all in stiff competition for what takes top priority. You want to leave feeling complete. Here’s what you can’t miss and what you can skip.

Sainte-Chapelle (a must-see)

Average on the outside, stunning on the inside. The stained glass in Sainte-Chapelle is a sight to behold. It’s really quite small with not much to do inside but look up and take pictures. If you buy tickets directly with the Sainte-Chapelle website, it’s good towards any day of the year (with a few holiday restrictions). We chose instead to buy front of the line tickets through “Get Your Guide”. You’ll have to select a specific day but can go at any time that day.

Free entry : On the Saturdays and Sundays of the "European Heritage Days": the 3rd weekend of September ; the 1st Sunday of the month (from 1/1 - 3/31 and 11/1 - 12/31)

Eiffel Tower (the summit is a must!)

You're here in Paris, you better pay to go all the way up. For €9 more (€25.50 vs €16.30), why limit yourself to the 2nd floor when you can reach the summit? It’s better to go at night when you can admire all the city lights, including the blinking ones on the tower itself. I love that you can go late! We went at 9:30 pm.

Once on the lower tower levels, expect long wait times to take the lift up to the top, even though admission tickets have specific entry times. Definitely buy online tickets in advanced and not at the booths on the premises. That in itself is a long, unnecessary line.

Pantheon (try to go during free entry)

We took advantage of the free entry (1st Sunday of the month, details below). Couple this with a visit to Sainte-Chapelle, both are close to each other. Do Sainte-Chapelle first though, since it’s smaller (therefore the entrance line moves slower) and more popular of the two. The Pantheon is a grand mausoleum that, while I didn’t find as picturesque as some of the other sites in Paris, still deserves a visit. And you’ll have something to compare it to if you ever visit the Pantheon in Rome. Entry is €9. I don’t think it’s necessary to buy front of the line passes, I imagine the line moves rather quickly on an ongoing basis.

Free entry : On the Saturdays and Sundays of the "European Heritage Days": the 3rd weekend of September ; the 1st Sunday of the month (from 1/1 - 3/31 and 11/1 - 12/31)

Notre Dame (free with Jefile app)

Notre Dame is free on New Year’s Day. Because the church can accommodate so many people, the line moved quickly. It’s certainly iconic, thanks to the animated Disney film “The Hunchback of Notre Dame” for all of us American 90’s babies. To me, the exterior is a sight to behold and is just as satisfactory to admire from the outside if you don’t have the time or desire to go in.

Tip! No longer stand in line for 2 hours to discover the breathtaking views over the heart of Paris and the cathedral! The Centre des Monuments Nationaux has joined forces with Jefile, a young, innovative company, to offer a free, universal admission management service, available in 8 languages.

Download the Jefile app free of charge and choose your preferred time to visit. No smartphone? The service is accessible to everyone: just come to the site and request a time slot by SMS or print a paper ticket. Reservations every day from 7.30am using the app. You can only select a time slot for the same day.

Versailles Day Trip (sooo worth it)

A half-day trip to Versailles is a must, but don’t even try to visit the Chateau de Versailles without front of the line tour tickets. First of all, with so many companies touting “front of the line” access, you will get to the front, but you’ll still have to wait a bit with about 4 other tour groups, it’s not immediate entry. (So imagine the horror if you don’t have front of the line passes).

We bought tickets with “Musement”. They had great customer service leading up to our trip and once in Versailles, their ticket office is diagonally across the train station. From there, our group walked together to the Chateau.

Don’t go at the popular time of 11 am. It’s too crowded.

Getting to Versailles from any arrondissement in Paris is simple via the RER’s. It doesn’t take more than 40 minutes.

Sacre Coeur (free view)

At the foot of the Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) church is a nice panoramic view of the city. I imagine it’s great on a warm winter or summer day because you can line the walls or the grass and do a picnic. We didn’t stay long, but the climb to the top was a nice way to burn off our lunch. Head down the Montemarte walk after to visit Moulin Rouge.

Moulin Rouge (free if you skip the show)

My boyfriend made me laugh by saying the only reason he needed to see Moulin Rouge was because he saw it in “Rush Hour 3”. My reason was not any better - I wanted to see it to pay tribute to the music video “Moulin Rouge” with Missy Elliot, Mya, Pink etc, not even the movie itself. We didn’t have the money or desire to glam up and see a show, which saved us at least $110 each.

Covered Passages (free to visit)

A fun, free activity is to visit Paris’s Covered Passages. You’d be hard pressed to find this kind of thing in the US, so this is just one of the charming things about exploring an ancient city. There’s many throughout the city so I had to select the ones I most wanted to visit. I chose Passage du Grand Cerf & Galerie Vivienne. They were close to each other and looked the most photographic to me.

Galeries Lafayette Haussmann (free rooftop views!)

This stunning, multi-story mall had somehow found its way into my IG newsfeed (oh those algorithms). The picture below (or to the right) says it all. But don’t go for the shopping - go for the amazing photo opp on the rooftop deck which boasts a beautiful view of the city. And that’s entirely free.

The Louvre (free first Saturdays of the month, worth it to pay)

Now in 2019, The Louvre is offering free entrance on the first Saturday of each month between 6:00 - 9:45 pm. (previously first Sundays). Take advantage of this if you can! The lines move relatively quickly since The Louvre can accommodate so many people. Just be sure to get there early, like 5:15 pm so you can be towards the front of the line.

Since The Louvre is, afterall, the world’s largest art museum, it’s hard to tour it all; so develop a game plan and pick and choose. I opted for the Mona Lisa (as does everyone) and the ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian exhibits.  

Champs-Elysees (free window shopping)

Home to the most famous high-end shopping district of Paris. You’re definitely reminded that Paris is home to couture when you walk the Champs-Elysees. It’s a tree-lined, wide avenue and you’re totally allowed to window shop. Note: cafes in this area are majorly overpriced. Even the supermarket chain Franprix had higher prices at this location).

Arc de Triomphe (free if you don’t go up)

The Champs-Elysees leads nicely to the Arc de Triomphe, a must-see for the historical factor, because #Napoleon. For €12 you can go up to the top of the arc to enjoy the view, but I think the view from the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur or rooftop of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann are all better options.

Champ de Mars (free)

Leading to the Eiffel Tower is Champ de Mars, a long and beautiful greenspace. Stunning from street level or from the top of the Eiffel. I would love to return on a warm summer day.

Pont Neuf (free)

Another place to visit just for the historical appeal. On New Year’s Eve as we were strolling along the Seine, we crossed the Pont Neuf bridge, one of the most famous bridges on the Seine, known for being the oldest (despite its name literally meaning New Bridge). Definitely a cool moment to step foot on a bridge that began construction in 1578.

Musee D'Orsay (free if you don’t go in)

I’m more into motion picture art rather than still, visual art, so what I appreciated more was the exterior of the Musee D’Orsay, particularly at night when it lights up and reflects beautifully against the Seine. I would have loved to see the works of Monet, but we decided entry to the entire museum wasn’t on our list of priorities.

Rue Cler (skip this)

FOMO compelled me to visit Rue Cler, but skip this famous street market, at least around the new year. The markets aren’t as bustling or plentiful as I hoped. The prefix menus at some of the restaurants are affordable, but the selection of restaurants itself isn’t as extensive as in other parts of Paris. We ate at a restaurant on the corner - the french onion soup was a ridiculous €12 and the burger was drier than cardboard. Considering what’s in french onion soup (cheese, bread, onions), you know that that is an obscene price.

Canal Saint-Martin (skip this)

Un-scenic and underwhelming, unless we arrived at the most unpolished part of the canal and left before we strolled further for more of a fair shot. It’s featured in the movie “Amelie” but that’s its only selling point.

GIFTS

Fatten up friends and fam with food gifts from Paris.

• Laurent Dubois French cheese. Sample the whole store before you decide and then they will vacuum seal it for you. (They also sell the famed Le Beurre Bordier butter, which can also be vacuum sealed. This kept in my luggage on the flight home).

• Macaroons make a great gift whether you go high end (La Duree) or thrifty (McDonald's)

• Chocolates. With Paris’s close proximity to Belgium, Belgian chocolates are also a thing here. You’ll find chocolatiers around the city. Jeff de Bruges is a chain that I saw frequently, but like La Duree, we have it in LA. (I also went to Franprix and found a Swiss chocolate bar, +Carresuisse, that is 100% cacao, cacao butter and sweetened only with stevia, making it perfect for my keto-dieting Dad. Pictured below).

• Shelf-stable chorizo (you can find at grocery stores like Franprix)